This place really is the pits!
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Former mining landscape south of Senftenberg on the Brandenburg/Saxony border
Currently (in April 2021), the COVID-19 restrictions in Germany forbid touristic travel outside the federal state where we live. Luckily that still gives us plenty of scope: the state of Brandenburg is huge, measuring roughly 160km east-west by 230km north-south - far more territory than we could cover on our bikes in a day! Our Strava heatmap coverage (below) still shows vast unexplored areas, and is very much centred on day-ride radius from our home in Potsdam. We don't own a car, and pre-COVID we would often take an early morning train and then ride back - sometimes over a weekend, with overnight stops - which shows up in the map as the long purple tendrils extending in different directions.
My Strava heatmap covering Brandenburg: plenty of white space left to explore!
For a change, and to fill in some of the gaps, over the Easter weekend we decided to rent a van so that we could easily just pop our bikes in the back and go off for the day to explore one of those far-flung corners. For the ride I'm describing here, let's zoom in on the far south-east corner of the map, skirting the border with the neighbouring state of Saxony.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
I already knew that lignite (brown coal) had been extensively used for electricity generation in Poland and the former East Germany (DDR), and that projects were in progress to regenerate the former opencast mine sites. What neither of us was prepared for was to find a working one! It was only during the detailed planning for this ride that I realised that lignite mining has not, in fact, been fully phased out yet in Germany.
We started our ride in the mining town of Welzow, and parked the van right by a colossal decommissioned excavator wheel which is on display there.
No banana for scale: the excavator wheel in Welzow (our white van parked in the background)
The mobile bike shed - so much less hassle than a roof or towbar rack!
The first thing we did - to set the context for the rest of the day - was ride the short distance up an access road to a public viewing point over the opencast mine. These mines are surrounded by tall earth bunds covered in trees, and you could go right past on the adjacent road without even realising that the mine was there. When we crested the bund and reached the viewpoint, we were gobsmacked (a word I dislike, but totally appropriate in this case!) by the sight of the brown, desolate mining expanse stretching literally to the horizon.
View over the Spremberg opencast lignite mine
Irony: lignite mining juxtaposed with wind turbines
After spending a few minutes gawping, taking photos and chatting with a retired mine worker who happened to be passing - who explained to us all about the water extraction system and how it caused the rather alarming noises coming from a nearby pressure relief valve - we set off on our ride proper. Although the sky looks cheerful enough in those photos, there were rain clouds blowing in on a rather stiff NW wind, and it was quite a dismal and chilly start. I'd planned the route to go against the wind first, so that at least we didn't have to fight it later in the day once we were tired. By the time we reached the windmill in Dörrwalde - the next point of interest on the route - we were getting cold, a few raindrops were falling, and we only made the briefest of stops for a photo before pressing on in the hope of finding some shelter.
Impressive brick windmill at Dörrwalde
Things got worse before they got better: the next turning took us onto a main road, which although marked on the map as a cycling route, didn't have a bike path, while the road itself was narrow with quite a lot of fast-moving traffic. As our bikes were both on fat 53mm tyres, we took ourselves off the road and along the grass headland of the adjacent field, which was slow and bumpy going - then I ran over a bramble and braced myself for the hiss of deflating tyres - which thankfully didn't come! I don't have many route planning failures, but this was rapidly turning into one of them...
Luckily we only had half a kilometre or so along this road before turning off again onto a quiet lane; then the sun came back out, and despite the wind it felt warm enough to sit down and have our first coffee stop, on a bench overlooking a disused opencast mine now transformed into a lake - just as impressively huge as the active mine we had seen earlier!
View from our coffee stop overlooking the Grossräschener See
This particular part of the mining area has only been partially reclaimed so far; it was still full of rail sidings, semi-derelict equipment, and signs warning "NO ACCESS - DANGER OF DEATH" - including a sign barring the access road to another hilltop viewing point which was marked on the map and we might have ridden up to.
Swimming beach, or danger zone? Make up your minds, chaps! Oh, and you need to keep your clothes on ("Textil")
Thus we came to the town of Senftenberg, which has obviously had a huge amount of investment to transform it along the path from decaying-former-mining-boom-town to wannabe-spa-resort-town. Shame about the pandemic stopping tourism in its tracks! Even so, the "Stadthafen" - a smart marina development on the edge of the flooded pit lake, so new that it didn't even have water in it yet on the satellite photos I looked at planning the ride! - was quite bustling with day trippers.
German tourists - forget Mallorca and Croatia - come to Senftenberg!
Our route took us on from Senftenberg in a big loop around its (former pit) lake to the south, on a beautifully constructed shared pedestrian/cycle path (no motor traffic except where traversing the villages en route). We stopped at an observation tower with 180 steps to the top and great views over the lake with its islands (photo at the top of this article), as well as over the "forbidden" border to Saxony in the other direction. We were enjoying the ride by now (thank goodness!) and we finished the afternoon riding past yet more reclaimed pits, through forest landscapes and villages, eventually having to put our foot down to race the next belt of rain back to where we had parked the van.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2021-04-03T10:51:13Z
Avg Pace:
3:42/km
Elevation:
90.1
Distance:
54325.7
Moving time:
12081
Activity id:
5061488199
Strava title:
It's the pits, man!
Total photo count:
9
Title:
This place really is the pits!
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Before I went to plan this ride, I thought that the Germans had decommissioned all their opencast lignite mines years ago and converted them into nature reserves ... turns out that it's not so!
Average speed:
4.497
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/20210403_140736.jpg?itok=LbrtjGus
StreamLatLng:
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