The train takes the strain, but the rain's still a pain
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Stay under a tree from 11 'til 3
When I was doing the medium-term planning for this tour - by which I mean about 10 days out, once I had decided the outline of where I was going and was fleshing out the detailed route planning and the kit list - the weather forecast was showing unremitting daytime temperatures in the low 30s (Celsius) for the entire five days, and I was mostly concerned about sunburn, hydration and heat exhaustion. "Just saying"!
Anyway, the reality turned out quite different, with temperatures in the low 20s at most, and rain never far away. (In retrospect, I think the turning point in the weather had been the thunderstorm as I left for Berlin at the start of this tour three days ago.) I needed my rain jacket for short periods both that day and on the first two days of this tour (Saturday and Sunday), but it was on the Sunday night that it set in in earnest. The noise of the deluge actually woke me up a couple of times, and by morning, Mikulov Castle, seen from my hotel room window, looked as if it were likely to float away like Noah's Ark.
The Mikulov Ark
I had a 100+km ride scheduled, and whilst I don't mind a bit of rain, the idea of riding all day in a downpour really doesn't appeal. Having seen the amount of water cascading down the hill outside, I was also worried about road flooding. Unfortunately the alternative rail option wasn't ideal, requiring four trains, the third of which was a long-distance train with mandatory advance reservation for the bike. But the first two reservation-free trains would get me to within 32km of my destination, which I reckoned I could survive in the rain, so that's what I decided to do.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
The train part of the plan actually went "swimmingly" (ha ha). Mikulov station was only 3 minutes' ride away from my hotel. The trains were punctual, clean and pleasant inside, had plenty of bike space and weren't at all crowded. I'm pretty sure the ticket clerk at Mikulov got my change wrong - I'm paying for everything in cash, as I accidentally drew out way too much Czech currency in my haste in Prague when I got confused about the exchange rate - but I don't know enough Czech to argue, I was holding up a queue of other customers, and the price was dirt cheap anyway by German/UK standards.
Exchange rate is around 25 to the euro, so my tickets came to less than €10 - bargain!
Nice train
Every little station the trains passed through seemed to be beautifully kept with neat platforms, smartly painted window frames, flowers in tubs, and uniformed station officials. If the Czechs can do that, I thought as I prepared my bicycle to get off at Okříšky, why can't the Germans look after their ruinous, vandalised, filthy, once-elegant station buildings? But Okříšky turned out to be the exception that proved the rule. Cracked concrete platforms with weeds growing high between the slabs, subsidence causing ankle-deep floods I had to wade through (thank goodness for sandals, where the water flows out just as fast as it flows in!), doors blanked off with metal plates, and heaps of discarded wood pieces lying around.
Wading off the train at Okříšky
Before riding off, I checked the tyres and the front one seemed a bit soft, so I decided to pump it. When I'd finished, the valve core came out with the pump connector, and the tyre went instantly and totally flat, with a sigh and a splutter of sealant out of the vacated valve stem. I carry a valve core key, so it was only the work of a few minutes to put it back in and pump the tyre up again, but it was hassle I could have done without while standing in the rain!
Well, I was standing in partial shelter of one of the semi-derelict station buildings, and once I left it to actually start riding, I was soaked to the skin within about one minute, Gore-Tex jacket notwithstanding.
My biggest problem turned out to be navigation. My current phone tends to generate phantom touchscreen inputs from raindrops, and the fingerprint sensor to unlock the screen doesn't work with wet fingers. Also, I was worried about getting moisture in the USB port etc, which hasn't been a problem with the current phone - yet - but the previous one used to complain about quite often. I hadn't brought my phone resuscitation chamber with me on tour (a ziplock bag filled with silica gel sachets), so if my phone had decided to sulk, I could have been in trouble.
Thus, my navigation routine ran as follows:
- find a "suitable shelter" (ideally a building with an overhanging awning, but a tree would do at a pinch, see photo at the top)
- peel off my soggy cycling gloves and squeeze them out
- pull up my rain jacket and wipe my hands on a dryish part of my cycling jersey underneath if I could still find one (good luck with that)
- get out my phone
- check the navigation and try to memorise the next few turns as well as the names of the next couple of villages, to match up with signposts
- put phone away
- struggle back into gloves, which tend to stick when wet (as we all know!)
- exit from shelter and resume riding
A suitable shelter
A somewhat less suitable shelter
Of course all this rigmarole really slowed down my progress, as did the two or three ensuing wrong turns / turning overshoots. I found I could commit the route to memory in chunks of about 5km, which also served as a morale-boosting countdown of the 30km to my destination. And my morale definitely needed boosting, as I was very wet indeed, quite cold and starting to get pretty miserable by the time I gratefully rolled into Telč.
Welcome to Telč
I reckon that any reasonable definition of an "adventure" includes lows as well as highs - otherwise it would just be "having fun" and not really an adventure at all! I hit my rock-bottom low just after arrival at today's accommodation. I felt dizzy, faint and sick with a headache coming on. My charming Czech host and hostess buzzed around trying to make sure that I was ok and had everything I needed, but we didn't have a single word in common - except, we found out, "Kaffee" which is universal in every language! So the host beamingly fetched a jar of instant - I hope I managed a smile in response, and not an eye-roll - while the hostess proffered a plate with three slices of lovely home-made apfelstrudel.
When they'd finally left me on my own, I stripped off my wet cycling kit, had a nice hot shower, made myself a cup of coffee with my own filter works and managed to down two of the Apfelstrudel pieces without actually being sick. Then I took a migraine tablet and put myself to bed.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-08-22T13:13:28Z
Avg Pace:
3:45/km
Elevation:
543.2
Distance:
33799.4
Moving time:
7592
Activity id:
7680886984
Strava title:
Okrisky to Telc in torrential rain
Total photo count:
4
Title:
The train takes the strain, but the rain's still a pain
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
I've only once been wetter on a bike in my life, and that didn't last as long as this!
Average speed:
4.452
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/1c4fbc5e-ea43-4972-aef3-126eb39a08ce.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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