On the Tracks of Saxony in Brandenburg - Part 1
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"Schmerberggestell" is the name of a track which runs as straight as a ruler for miles and miles through the forests south of Potsdam. We discovered it more or less by accident, when Caroline spotted a branch off another trail we were riding along and said “can we try THAT one?” A quick check of the map showed that it was going in the right general direction for our route, so that was a “yes”. We found it so nice to ride along - lovely forest, reasonable surface, very few people - that it’s become a staple of our route planning ever since, including in the snow!
Schmerberggestell in the snow (February 2021)
We became intrigued by the history of this apparently minor, little-used track and why it was even there. For a start, it has a name. Secondly, we soon realised that it runs on a lot further than the point where we first picked it up - it’s interrupted by a motorway junction, but then continues on towards the south-west where in fact we had already ridden along it several times, without realising it was the same track. Thirdly, it was evidently a significant enough highway to have a bridge built to take it over the railway line - possibly as late as the 1920s, if I am interpreting the Wikipedia article about this railway correctly. The bridge was closed and under repair when we first went that way, but has since been made safe enough to reopen for pedestrian and cycle traffic. The railway bridge is actually quite a big deal: a frustrating feature of route planning around here is how many of the trails are severed by the railways (and the motorways), resulting in some quite long detours. The fact that a bridge *was* built for this road means it really must have been quite important at the time.
The Schmerberggestell showing up as a very long straight line on my Strava heatmap
Our “research” - which admittedly didn’t amount to much more than Wikipedia and a few local tourism articles - turned up the interesting fact that Schmerberg was a link on a military road linking the Duchy of Saxony with its territory at Saarmund, just south of Potsdam. This was quite a surprise to us, as we had no idea that Saxony had ever extended this far north - the boundary to modern-day Saxony is some 75km away - so it was in Saarmund that we decided to start our exploration.
Saarmund is close enough to our home in Potsdam - 13km, according to today’s preliminary “positioning” ride - to be part of our regular stamping ground. It doesn’t contain much of interest to arrest the passing cyclist; I’ve only stopped there twice before today - once to photograph the electrical utility artworks, and once when I got a broken spoke! At the turn of the 14th to the 15th century, though, it must have been strategically and/or economically important enough for the Margrave of Meissen (in Saxony) to buy the place, and for a pair of notorious local robber barons to seize it soon afterwards. The military road concession via Schmerberg was documented in 1445. Wars, plagues, fires, famines and changes of overlordship have devastated the place on a regular basis ever since, and there’s just about nothing left to see. The former castle now exists only as a mural on an electricity transformer box; there is a church dating from the mid-19th century, and a group of historical buildings around the former windmill(s) - the sources mention two or even three of them.
Saarmund church facing onto the old market place; the church and surrounding buildings date from the rebuild in the late 1840s, after the village was largely razed by fire
Artist's impression of Saarmund castle, adorning an electrical installation
Mühlenstrasse (Mills Street, note the plural!) in Saarmund - the windmills themselves long gone
Besides the windmills, there was also a watermill, converted in the mid 19th Century - according to the helpful infoboard at the site - from its original purpose of grain milling, to power the newly-mechanised weaving looms, and subsequently dismantled after steam power took over in 1870. A symbolic sculptural mill wheel stands forlornly in the stream, next to an apparent pile of dumped debris.
Former watermill with a non-functional mill wheel sculpture
It's not really clear which route the old road took upon leaving Saarmund - the course is obscured by more recent development along the route, including the small town of Michendorf and quite a lot of railway infrastructure. (One of Europe's biggest rail marshalling yards is just to the south, at Seddin.) There's the modern main road to Michendorf, with a beautiful brand-new segregated cycleway alongside it, which we eschewed in favour of a gravel/cobblestone track leading in a dead straight line along the railway, past another windmill (preserved this time), and through the older part of the village of Langerwisch, which itself has some beautifully preserved buildings and would be worth a stop to look around sometime. As we had a ride to complete, this time we didn't stop there even for a photo; I'll have to go back another time to take one or two to add to this article.
Oh, we do like to be beside the railway! Especially when the driver gives us a wave!
Dead straight cobblestone road between Saarmund and Langerwisch; the avenue has been lovingly replanted with new cherry trees, all different varieties individually named and labelled
Preserved windmill near Langerwisch
The road layout in Michendorf, and especially the main B2 road bypassing the town, pushed us off our straight line somewhat - but at least that took us past another windmill - missing its sails, this time.
Disused windmill in Michendorf
Here in Michendorf, the Schmerberger Strasse obviously wasn't important enough to get its own railway crossing, so we had to double back and take the Flottsteller Strasse instead. Remember the name Flottstelle; I'll come back to it later!
Signage in Michendorf
Crossing the railway in Michendorf brought us out of the fields and into the forest, eventually merging back onto the Schmerberggestell, the trail which started us on this mission! There's no imposing sense of arrival in the hamlet of Schmerberg, though, which is a sad ghost of its former importance. It has a forestry office, a brand-new motorway service station, and a small gravel "car park" which has newly been blocked off with logs to stop people from using it any more; not sure if this is part of COVID-19 restrictions, or if it was never meant as a car park anyway. And - uh - that's it. Even the name Schmerberg has apparently been purged; the forestry office bears the name of Seddin district, and the nearby railway station goes by "Ferch-Lienewitz".
Panoramic view of Schmerberg, 2021 version. Motorway services on the left, forestry office right of centre. The railway station is about 600m straight on down the road between the two.
Schmerberg, the hill - as opposed to Schmerberg, the village - was even more underwhelming: no signage, not even a path, and the highest point on the ground seemed to be in a different place to the summit marked on the map.
Queen of the Castle at Schmerberg (all of 59m above sea level)
The sources mention the military road dividing at Schmerberg, with a branch going to Lienewitz. When I first read about this, it instantly gave context to the - obviously very old - cobbled road through the forest which I've dubbed the "Lienewitz Extreme Cobbles" and which I use as part of my test route for new tyres.
The "Lienewitz Extreme Cobbles" (photo from a previous trip)
Lienewitz village is only about a kilometre down the road, though - so close that is almost seems odd to give it a separate mention - whilst the cobbled road continues on to another village, Flottstelle, beside the Schwielowsee lake. Flottstelle literally means "fleet place", and I had fanciful ideas that maybe the Duchy of Saxony kept ships there for access to the Havel river waterways. I couldn't find anything to back this up, though, and in fact there's virtually no historical information at all about Flottstelle to be found online. The only snippet I found was something about fishing rights on the lake being assigned to the villagers there (and not in other villages, which seems harsh!), so maybe the name refers to a fishing fleet as opposed to the naval kind.
Anyway, I couldn't persuade Caroline to tackle the cobbles even for the short distance to Lienewitz and back, so the photography there will have to wait for another day, too. Much as with Saarmund, I've ridden through Lienewitz a few times but never stopped!
Instead, we took the underpass through the motorway junction and then picked up the Schmerberggestell trail again on the other side, continuing south-west and stopping for our packed lunch on a bench in the sun, near that railway bridge I mentioned at the beginning.
Birch forest near our picnic stop; that tarmac road runs at right angles to the Schmerberggestell. (Photo from a previous trip)
Partially collapsed and patched-up bridge carrying the trail across the railway. (Photo from a previous trip)
After the next town, Beelitz-Heilstätten, the old course of the trail isn't really discernible any more; our route merged with the European Cycle Route no.1 (which runs all the way from Moscow to London!), running beside the railway again and then diverting around the edge of a military zone. We buzzed along the pristine tarmac, and didn't stop until we reached Neuendorf - a satellite village of our destination, Brück - where there was a particularly fine selection of DDR-era steel fences to be photographed (my latest fetish!)
Nice selection of fence designs in Neuendorf
After some 37km, we reached our destination, Brück, which for several centuries was the northern frontier town of the Duchy / Kingdom of Saxony, until 1815 when a large part of the territory was ceded to Prussia, under the terms of the Congress of Vienna which ended the Napoleonic Wars. Its castle, the presumed other endpoint of the military road we had been following, like Saarmund's has long since disappeared. The castle site is commemorated by a guest house named "Am Schlossbusch", and occupied (with possibly deliberate irony) by communist-era housing blocks.
Not much left to see on the site of Brück castle!
Church and village centre of Brück
Brück does have a very tangible and impressive relic of Saxon rule, though, in the form of the "Postmeilensäule" - "postal mile pillar". Where others might make do with a simple milestone, the Duchy of Saxony postal service erected whacking great 4-metre-high obelisks with the distances (actually, the travel times in hours) to various other postal centres. This one dates from 1730 (photo at the top of this article).
Curiously, neither Saarmund nor Schmerberg gets a mention; maybe the military, not the postal service, took care of communications with the exclaves. Anyway, it made a suitably symbolic end to our first exploration of the history of Saxony in modern-day Brandenburg.
Going postal in Brück
No banana available for scale, so we had to use our bikes!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2021-04-11T10:41:04Z
Avg Pace:
4:14/km
Elevation:
141.6
Distance:
37530.6
Moving time:
9536
Activity id:
5108172265
Strava title:
Military road Saarmund to Brück
Total photo count:
7
Title:
On the Tracks of Saxony in Brandenburg - Part 1
Summary Polyline:
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Average speed:
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Cover image:
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