The Little Carpathians
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Today was the official "roughstuff day" of my tour. I love roughstuff cycling - as gravel riding was known when I was a young man! - and I'm a bit of a maverick when it comes to route planning, so I started my Bratislava to Prague tour heading in completely the wrong direction - NE rather than NW - to explore that enticing dark green swathe you can see on the map, extending north-eastwards from Bratislava. These are the Little Carpathian hills, and my route mostly was on Slovak Mountainbike Trail no. 047 https://www.cykloportal.sk/trasy/047-stefanikova-cyklomagistrala/ which basically follows the ridge of those hills.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
Unfortunately I started the day with a mission-threatening injury. As usual in the summer, I was riding in my Shimano cleated sandals, and during my mad dash around Prague yesterday I must have got some grit stuck between my toes and the front right sandal strap. There were a couple of nasty chafed patches and it was quite painful. With a schedule of 5 consecutive days of rides around 100km, there was going to be plenty more wear and tear on that spot, and apart from trying to keep it clean and apply plenty of antiseptic cream (which luckily I had packed), there wasn't an awful lot more I could do. If I'd been at home I'd have changed to different footwear, but I didn't have that option on tour. Luckily I did have socks with me, so despite the sartorial faux pas I decided to wear them with the sandals, to introduce a bit more padding and help keep the foot clean.
I skipped the hotel breakfast, as I wanted to be on the road early, but with the help of Google Maps I'd identified a promising bakery. The rain shower which forced me into my waterproof jacket as I left the hotel had thankfully already stopped by the time I reached the bakery, so I was able to sit outside in the sunshine enjoying a "burek" cheese and onion pastry, as well as buying some local speciality sweet pastries for later.
"Bratislavské Rozky" - local speciality filled with either nut paste or poppy seeds (I had one of each) - translates as "Bratislava little horns" :)
Al-fresco burek breakfast
Map-reading my way through the suburbs, I was thwarted again - as in Prague yesterday - by no entry signs and one-way streets; but this time I just ignored everything and rode up them the wrong way, as there was next to no traffic at this early hour, and still fewer Police - or so I thought, until I came upon a police car stopped at the roadside with the officer standing beside it looking quizzically at me as I whirred past! Luckily, this happened at a point where I was riding correctly, but I was more punctilious after that!
Climbing out of Bratislava in the morning sunshine. The trail starts by that transmitter.
It was nice to get stuck into a decent climb as a change from my home diet of Brandenburg flatness. The end of the Carpathian ridge overlooks Bratislava city from an altitude of around 400m - the waymark sign where I joined the trail stated 396m, so I calibrated my watch altimeter to that - and then the trail undulates between about 400m and 600m all the way along the ridge. This means a lot of short ups and downs, without the opportunity to really settle into a steady climbing rhythm as one does on say a long alpine pass climb, making it quite taxing, especially with a load on the bike. My foot was holding up surprisingly well, as long as I didn't do too much pulling up on the pedal.
The route is described as an "intermediate" MTB route, mostly on forest tracks, and the Titanium Devil and I were soon in our element. The bike was literally made for this! However, as I got further away from Bratislava, there were several narrower, steeper and more loosely surfaced sections which had me walking in a few places. One insanely steep downhill gradient, heavily gullied by water run-off, gave me the same feeling as looking down a black ski run: "do I really have to get down THAT?!?!"
I could ride all day on tracks like this!
Things got a bit hairy in places, though!
Although the forest was very beautiful, it got a bit "samey" after a while, so it was important to savour the few spots where the trees thinned out to give a more distant views, like in the photo at the top. The rest benches along the way all seemed to have been placed in enclosed glades. I wanted to make my lunch stop at a place with a view; so when I came to a view, at a place which would have been perfect for a bench but didn't have one, I stopped anyway and sat on the bank beside the track - having checked carefully for ants!
The view from lunch
There weren't any ants; there weren't any wasps arriving to share my picnic; there weren't any mosquitoes trying to snack on me; there weren't any bumblebees or butterflies on wayside flowers. It was all rather chillingly Silent-Spring-like. The lack of insects probably explained the lack of birds, give or take the odd jay or woodpecker.
My snack exactly matched the waymarks!
The whole forest was eerily quiet, especially in the section where the red "C" waymarks I was following had been painted out - I was following GPS so I carried on anyway - and after a while I realised that the trickle of other mountain bikers had dried up and I was totally alone. At any moment I expected a Carpathian Bear to pop its head around a tree and say "boo!" Then I realised I didn't actually have a contingency plan for this, beyond the cliche advice "if it's brown, lie down/ if it's black, fight back". I was dubious whether either of these would actually work for me. "If you see bears, say your prayers" sounded more realistic! Anyway, I pulled myself together and made up my mind not to worry unless I saw bear poo - I know what it looks like from previous experience.
Catastrophe awaits any mountain biker launching themselves through that innocuous-looking gap ahead! It concealed a steep corkscrew descent which I barely made it down on foot...
All the rests, snacks and gradients made for slow progress, and by 1500 - the time I'd hoped to reach my accommodation - I couldn't fathom how the heck I had managed to take over 6 hours for 50km of progress. I was getting tired, and more thunderstorms were forecast for later, so I looked at the map to find the next feasible escape route to join the valley road. After a final taxing gravel climb, and an exhilarating winding descent turning to tarmac about halfway down, I made it to the village of Dolany and from there an easy cruise through fields and vineyards to Smolenice, my destination for the day.
A pocket of vineyards in the valley. The ridge I'd been riding along looming beyond.
I'd preplanned an ice cream shop stop thanks to Google Maps, so I headed there first and then on to my accommodation, finally arriving at about 1800.
A welcoming array of ice cream when I finally made it to Smolenice
Thoughts of a reviving nap long abandoned, there was just time for a quick shower and change before heading back out to the village shop before it closed, followed by an infeasibly large pizza which somehow disappeared...
Infeasibly large pizza; banana for scale!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-08-20T07:04:45Z
Avg Pace:
5:33/km
Elevation:
1885.1
Distance:
79110.7
Moving time:
26333
Activity id:
7670530620
Strava title:
Bratislava to Smolenice on Slovak MTB trail 047
Total photo count:
7
Title:
The Little Carpathians
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
https://www.cykloportal.sk/trasy/047-stefanikova-cyklomagistrala/
Found it tough going (though beautiful!) - bailed out onto road for the last 15km or so
Average speed:
3.004
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/d0a28fe0-d62d-49ed-bd2d-d613ab13b314.jpg
StreamLatLng:
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