Zittau: a place for mediæval scholars and steam train buffs
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Exploring Zittau
The Ascension Day public holiday in Germany falls on a Thursday, and, in common with many others, I'd decided to take the Friday off work too, and make a 4-day long weekend of it. Caroline and I planned to take our bikes just across the border into Czechia, where we'd booked a holiday apartment; the challenge was how to get there! Due to the recently-introduced "Deutschland Ticket" (€49 for a month's unlimited travel on all local and regional public transport), we expected the Wednesday evening getaway trains to be extremely full - possibly to the point of not being able to get on them with our bikes. As for the long-distance trains, they have limited bike space and were all booked solid by the time we came to plan this trip.
Our cunning plan to get round this was to take an unsocially early train on Thursday morning - 04:48 from Potsdam - when all decent German folk would still be tucked up in bed, leaving the train clear for maverick British & Irish! It worked, too - and delivered us to Zittau, just inside Germany close to the triple border with Czechia and Poland, at about 9am with the whole day still ahead of us.
The train got pretty full on the leg from Cottbus to Zittau
The first thing which attracted our attention on arrival was the narrow-gauge steam railway - co-located with the main line station - where two steam engines were being prepared for the bank holiday service.
Early-morning trainspotting in Zittau
After watching the first train depart - and waving to the passengers! - we headed straight into the centre of town for a lightning tour of the main sights. First, the Marktplatz (Market Square) with the very imposing Rathaus (Town Hall) at one end, and rows of bicycle racks in the shape of (who'd have thought it?!) bicycles.
Zittau Rathaus, with appropriate bike racks
Next, the Floral Clock in a nearby park, which is exactly what its name suggests. It has a carillon (visible in the top left of the video frame, below) which plays tunes, not just on the hour, but on every quarter hour!
We listened to the clock striking 10, which meant it was the opening time of the museum housing Zittau's main treasure: the lenten altar cloth of 1472, reputedly the most important surviving artefact of its type in Germany. At 56 square metres in size, it occupies an entire wall of the converted church which houses it. Zittau also has a second, smaller, lenten cloth, housed in a different museum, which we skipped visiting on this occasion.
Biblical scenes from the Zittau Lenten Shroud (non-flash photography permitted - yes, I asked!)
Having dealt with the main sights of Zittau, it was time to head out of town to the nearby railway junction of Bertsdorf, where the celebrated spectacle of two steam trains departing simultaneously on different tracks was timetabled for 11.46. We wanted to get there in good time to bag a photography spot, as we expected there to be legions of railway buffs all jostling for position with their cameras! In the event there were just two others ... but the extra time came in handy for scouting for the best viewpoint, as well as the bonus of watching a vintage diesel train passing through.
Dual steam train departure from Bertsdorf
Watering stop for loco no. 99749
Bonus diesel-hauled train entering Bertsdorf
On leaving Bertsdorf station, we took an unexpectedly narrow and tricky forest trail - our obligatory bit of "roughstuff" for the day! - before getting back onto tarmac roads and heading over the border into Czechia and our lunch stop.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
Some quite rough roughstuff heading towards the Czech border
Although we were in Czechia, we picked a Slovak restaurant!
From lunch it was barely another 10km to our destination: the small town of Krásná Lípa, our base for the next few days exploring "Bohemian Switzerland". Despite the Ascension Day holiday, the shops were open here, so we first went into the Tourist Information to pick up a local cycling/hiking map, and then into two different grocery shops for supplies, as well as checking the bakery opening time for the next day's breakfast. We'd chosen Krásná Lípa specifically for its shopping opportunities, as we were staying self-catering and didn't want to have to lug all our supplies in by bike.
Above & below: Krásná Lípa town centre and church
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2023-05-18T10:49:37Z
Avg Pace:
4:54/km
Elevation:
435.2
Distance:
29009.1
Moving time:
8518
Activity id:
9094621401
Strava title:
Zittau to Krásná Lípa - most leisurely ride EVER!
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Zittau: a place for mediæval scholars and steam train buffs
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
With protracted steam train geekery, and a sustaining lunch at a homely Slovak restaurant.
Average speed:
3.406
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/IMG_20230612_124232.jpg?itok=hOCm7r58
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