North Pennines roughstuff finale
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Burntridge Moor, near Allendale Town
It was the last day of our cycling holiday in the North Pennines before we had to load up the car and head south for a few days prior to returning home to Potsdam. Caroline wanted a rest day from cycling (she went running instead), which left me to my own devices; I tend to be more gung-ho about the "roughstuff" than she is, so I planned my route accordingly!
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The first 3/4 hour was all on tarmac, though, heading south from our accommodation at Spartylea, climbing steadily through and past Allenheads before losing all that height again on a swooping descent down a wide valley alongside the Rookhope Burn. It's hard to imagine, looking at the deserted moorland landscape, that this valley was a hive of the mining industry for the best part of three centuries. Large-scale lead mining arrived in the early 18th century, with production switching mainly to fluorspar during the 20th century; the last mine at Groverake finally closed in 1999. Only a few mining structures remain as testament to the mining history, along with the artificial contours of the valley sides where the vegetation has grown back over former spoil heaps.
Remains of Groverake mine, closed in 1999
Man-made contours of the spoil heaps clearly visible in this photo with John, on our ride along the same road a few days previously
Rookhope Arch, the remains of a flue built to carry fumes away from the nearby lead smelter
My first roughstuff excursion of the day also followed former mining infrastructure, and a quite dramatic example at that: the "Bolt's Law Railway Incline", the summit of which is the site of the highest altitude *standard gauge* railway ever built in the UK. The railway track has now been repurposed as a cycle route, forming an optional part of the NCN7 / C2C route. "Optional", because the C2C sensibly has both road and gravel options at certain points, allowing riders to suit their preferences.
NCN7 signage at Rookhope
Approaching the summit at Bolt's Law
The gradient on the west side from Rookhope is quite steep - my bike has ridiculously low gears and I was able to ride it all, just! The railway wagons used to be moved up and down using a winding engine at the top, rather than locomotives. Recognisable parts of the station buildings and engine house at the top remain, with the bike path following the former trackbed through the station, and there's a fascinating information board with a photo of the scene when it was operational (it closed in 1923).
Info board at Bolt's Law
Remains of the summit station at Bolt's Law - looking back towards Rookhope, opposite aspect to the info board
The track on the east side of the summit crosses a much flatter area of moorland - I presume that locomotives were used here - with an easy gravel surface, and I made good progress.
Trail heading east from Bolt's Law
Suddenly, there was a hiss from my front tyre - a puncture! When riding on tubeless tyres, one has to fight the natural instinct to stop immediately, which is actually the worst thing to do; if the wheels keep turning, it brings a constant flow of sealant to "self heal" the damaged section. Indeed, after about half a dozen revolutions, the hissing stopped and I was able to simply carry on. When I reached the next tarmac road a couple of km further on, with a convenient fence to lean the bike against, I did stop to check how much air the tyre had lost and I decided I had better pump it back up a bit. The tyre hissed again as I pumped, which baffled me as I couldn't see any trace of escaping sealant, which would have shown if the puncture hadn't fully sealed. Eventually I realised that the the hissing was coming from the pump hose, which had split, and I had lost quite a bit more air from the tyre in the process of trying to pump it up! I judged that it was borderline ok to carry on riding carefully while looking for a bike shop, or a filling station with an air hose, or wave down the next cyclist I met (there had been one or two) and ask to borrow their pump. Sure enough, as I followed the road northwards towards Blanchland, another cyclist caught me up and I gave them a cheery "hello" as they started to pass me. I was about to follow up by asking about a pump, but the cyclist just grunted and fell back behind me and didn't seem to want to chat. We were both toiling up a hill at the time and I didn't really want to stop - and the other cyclist would very likely have just carried on past anyway - so I kept going to the top, then went easy and waited for them to catch up with me again; but they never did, and later on must have taken a different turning.
The road dipped to a river crossing at the hamlet of Baybridge, where the Blanchland road swings off towards the east following the river, but I continued northwards onto my second roughstuff section, climbing steeply (up to about 20%) onto moorland leading to Slaley Forest. I didn't mind the tyre being a bit soft at this point as it actually gave a better ride over the surface, which was quite rough and stony in places, as well as a few sandy spots to remind me of my "home territory" in Brandenburg (which honestly I would rather have forgotten about for a few days).
Sandy track across Blanchland Moor
At intervals, the track had gates which had to be opened and closed to pass through, and in the distance at the next gate I could see a group of mountain bikers who had negotiated the gate and seemed to have propped their bikes against the adjacent wall while they had a rest or a map check. I increased my speed to try to catch up with them before they moved on, and I was almost within hailing distance when they jumped on their bikes and set off again! They were a bit faster than me on the trail, but a bit slower through the gates as there were 3 or 4 of them to go through each time, and I went through about three iterations of almost catching them before I finally lost them when we reached Slaley Forest and there were no more gates. Still no luck with borrowing a pump, then!
The next section was downhill, quite steep in places on a tricky loose stony surface, and I really needed to do something about the tyre, which was now squishy enough to affect my steering control. Salvation came at last in the form of a couple of old guys with e-bikes (OK, they were probably about the same age as me!) who had stopped at a crossroads where the gravel track rejoined the tarmac. After a little bit of banter ("oooh, I dunno, it'll cost you" - "OK I'll trade for a muesli bar") the pump was duly handed over. It turned out to have the wrong valve connector for my bike, and the guys looked on in fascination as I did a "pass the parcel" unwrapping of my tool kit: undo saddlebag, get out tool pack, unzip tool pack, get out puncture kit box, open puncture kit, dig about - produce Schrader to Presta adaptor! The cyclist who has everything - except a working pump!! (It had never really occurred to me that the pump is a single critical point of failure; I've decided in future to add a CO2 inflator to my road kit as a backup, when riding solo.)
Before I set off again they quizzed me about my route, and said "oh that sounds fun - we might head that way too!" I laughed and said I'd probably see them again soon then, when they caught me up with their electric motors. They reckoned I'd be much faster, but I wasn't so sure, and in fact later on an uphill section I could see them behind and gaining on me - but without ever quite catching up.
On hearing the last cuckoo
After an undulating tarmac section through fields and farmsteads - and a small stand of trees where I heard a late cuckoo, which hadn't got the message yet about "in the middle of June it changes its tune" - it was time for the third and last roughstuff of the day. I was a little bit nervous about this one, as it was only marked as a "bridleway" on the Ordnance Survey map, without any marking of a vehicular track as such, and Caroline had reported pretty wet and muddy conditions when she had hiked in the same general area the other day. I needn't have worried, though, because apart from a steep initial pull - requiring my lowest gear - from the last farmstead at the end of the tarmac up onto the moor, it was easy going on a nice firm and dry gravel track (photo at the top). This spot also had the best curlew sightings of the day, although their degree of agitation indicated that their nests and babies must be very close by, so I felt a bit bad about intruding.
Best curlew sightings of the trip!
I stopped off in Allendale Town for just long enough to drop into the excellent butcher's shop to buy steak pies for a late lunch, then dashed back the last 10km to our accommodation so they could be eaten before they got too cold!
Pie delivery bikes at Allendale Butchers
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-06-16T08:38:54Z
Avg Pace:
4:17/km
Elevation:
1066.9
Distance:
52439.4
Moving time:
13495
Activity id:
7318291759
Strava title:
North Pennines roughstuff finale
Total photo count:
6
Title:
North Pennines roughstuff finale
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Last ride of this trip - riding alone, which means a more gravelly route than my cycling companions are comfortable with 😉
Nipped into the Allendale Butcher's on the way back to base to get steak pies for lunch 😋
Average speed:
3.886
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/bb11558e-70c7-42d1-ab2b-388f0c5d0255.jpg
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