Prague in two hours
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I had a two-hour gap between trains in Prague - en route to Bratislava where I was going to start a short tour (working my way back to Prague) - and, never having been to Prague before, I found myself wondering if it was possible to cram all the essential sightseeing into that short time. I canvassed my friends, as well as an online cycle touring forum which I belong to, for their must-see recommendations, and the list very rapidly distilled into the Astronomical Clock, the Charles Bridge, the Castle, and Wenceslas Square. I added one more sight which I'll surprise you with in a minute rather than mentioning now, used Komoot to plan an hourglass-shaped 10km route joining them all up, and I was all set to go. (Optimistically, I also thought I might get myself an early lunch.)
--
My day had begun with a crazy 3am alarm, in preparation for setting off at 04.30 on my bike to ride the 26km to Berlin Südkreuz railway station for an 06.23 departure. It was a narrow decision whether to cycle all the way, or to connect via the suburban train from Potsdam. There was thunder, lightning and heavy rain as a background to my breakfast, and I didn't especially fancy starting off my 14 hours of travel with a soaking. On the other hand, there was a more than fair chance that I'd get to Potsdam station and find the trains cancelled due to a lightning strike on a power sub-station (or something) and I felt that this was a bigger hazard than getting wet!
A nice weather window opening up along my route
A final check of the weather radar map showed the rain tailing off, so in the end it was an easy decision. I only needed my rain jacket for the first 20 minutes, as the rain fizzled out and the skies cleared to reveal the beginning of the dawn in the east ahead of me.
First of all, though, a quick word about that train journey. Considering the difficulty of getting seats, not to mention bike reservations, on trains in Germany at the moment, I was surprised to find the train almost empty, and only one other of the dozen or so bike spaces taken (although a group of 5 more cyclists did get on later). When I'd initially tried to book this journey using the Deutsche Bahn website, it told me that there weren't any available bike spaces - on any train on this route on this day - and I was about to give up and plan a trip somewhere else altogether when I hit on the bright idea of trying the Czech Railways booking engine instead - who are the actual operators of this particular train. It was probably the smoothest booking experience of any railway web site I've ever used - in English, too - and when you reserve a bike space, it's automatically linked to a reserved seat in the block of seats nearest to the bikes, so you can keep an eye on it. The bike hook and the seat are even labelled with the same number, so you don't have to remember two different numbers while you are getting on the train!
Plenty of space on the train from Berlin to Prague
Arrived at Prague Main Station
The train duly arrived 20mins or so late at Prague, and I was glad that I'd gone for the sightseeing option rather than the first available onward connection, which was just leaving as I wheeled my bike through the subway past the respective platform.
I'd been warned about two things: lack of cycling infrastructure in Czechia, and hostile attitude of the drivers. So I was pleased that the first thing I saw on exiting the station was a bike lane, painted on the road next to the tram tracks, heading in the direction I needed to go. The navigation was pretty simple: go along the front of the station, turn left and continue in a straight line directly into the centre of the Old Town.
Looking back out through the gate tower leading into Prague Old Town. Note the bike lane!
Very soon, I was passing through a colossal gate tower and then reached the Old Town Square, with its imposing buildings and monuments, flocks of tourists, and fleets of rental bikes.
Old Town Square
The Old Town Square is also the location of the famous Astronomical Clock, which has a special mechanism to show the times of daylight, twilight and darkness as they vary through the year: blue, red and black zones on the upper dial (see photo)
The Astronomical Clock (with a standard modern clock for comparison). Unfortunately I didn't have time to wait to watch it strike the hour.
From the Astronomical Clock, I had another dead straight line to ride to reach the Cech Bridge across the Vltava river, and, visible on the skyline beyond as I approached, my "surprise" destination, the Prague Metronome sculpture.
https://livingprague.com/prague-attractions/prague-metronome/
This was erected in 1991 on a plinth left vacant by the removal of a huge statue of Stalin - I hadn't realised that he was purged as early as 1962! - and is supposed to represent "the relentless passing of time". Unfortunately, although it is a fully working metronome, it wasn't running at the time I visited.
The Prague Metronome. (Ghostly figures in the foreground are an artefact of the HDR camera app.)
Although the Metronome was directly in front of me as I crossed the Cech Bridge, I couldn't go straight up to it, but instead had to go via a zigzag route which, although clearly signed as a shared use pedestrian/bike path, was so steep that I needed the 2nd-lowest of my ridiculously low gears. A few pedestrians coming down the other way looked at me in disbelief! Still, this did get me up to the perfect vantage point for the classic view over the curve of the Vltava river with the Castle high up beside me, the Old Town on the opposite bank and the famous Charles Bridge liking the two. (I was already thinking that Charles Bridge - the 2nd bridge from the camera in the photo below - was very likely best observed from this distance!).
Classic view of Prague Old Town with the Vltava river
Then I carried on to view and photograph the Metronome at close quarters (2nd photo above), before backtracking past that same vantage point to reach my next objective, Prague Castle.
Prague Castle
The Castle is accessible to paying visitors only, and I definitely didn't have space in my schedule for that today, so I skirted round the edge of the Castle grounds on a main road, where I had the pleasure of seeing a vintage tram (upper left photo, below).
Prague trams of various vintages
Descending back to river level through the maze of narrow cobbled streets linking the broad squares, imposing residences and ecclesiastical buildings - I'm sure I heard Gregorian chant emanating from one cloistered courtyard! - I had numerous stops both for photography and to check my navigation; time was ticking on, and it was becoming clear that lunch was going to remain an illusion, and indeed I was going to have to get a move on if I was going to catch my train.
Look, no tourists! (I scrambled to park my bike and get this shot as a crocodile of sightseers approached with their flag-bearing guide). Note the clock showing 12.13; my train to Bratislava went at 12.56
Tourists aplenty on Charles Bridge, though
Frantically weaving my bike (on foot) through the throng of tourists on Charles Bridge - I was right about best viewing it from a distance (maybe 5am would be good on the bridge itself, if I ever find myself staying overnight in Prague) - I decided that I was going to have to skip Wenceslas Square and head straight back to the station - turning my original route which I described as "hourglass-shaped" into something more resembling a piranha fish!
"Straight" to the station turned out to be an illusion, too, as the direct route was constantly thwarted by pedestrian zones and no entry signs. A run-in with the Police at this point would definitely have missed me my train, and I really didn't have a Plan B.
Making turn after turn through the maze of cobbled streets, evading catastrophe in the tram lines and desperately trying to keep my sense of direction, I was mightily relieved when the ugly modern station building came into view ahead, and in the end I was on the platform 5 minutes before the train was due. Didn't even have time to buy a sandwich on the station - so water and muesli bars would have to suffice for the 5-hour train journey until I could get a hearty dinner in Bratislava!
Venison goulash in Bratislava
But: I had proved that you can see Prague in 2 hours! No need to go back there ever again!!
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-08-19T11:02:14Z
Avg Pace:
7:03/km
Elevation:
113.9
Distance:
10775.3
Moving time:
4558
Activity id:
7663563633
Strava title:
Two hours in Prague / Prague in two hours
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Prague in two hours
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
All boxes ticked... never need to go there again 🤣
Average speed:
2.364
Cover image:
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