The Prussian Optical Telegraph
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For our first bike ride back home in Potsdam after our cycling holiday in the UK, we had various constraints on our route planning. As we'd had a few days' break from cycling, we didn't want too long a route (thinking 60-70km rather than 100+); we didn't want to go train-assisted, as the trains in Germany are currently suffering from serious overcrowding; we wanted to fit in a nice restaurant lunch stop; and we wanted to give our classic touring bikes an outing, which meant a mainly tarmac route as they are fitted with non-roughstuff-friendly tyres. The distance constraint ruled out a couple of our favourite restaurants, another was in a direction we didn't particularly feel like going, so with the help of online mapping and reviews we picked a likely-sounding one that we hadn't been to before, and constructed a route around that.
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
We started off heading south-west out of Potsdam to cross the river Havel at Geltow, one of the few available bridging points, so quite a few of our rides start and/or finish in that direction. Then we turned north-west, following the shore of the Glindower See. We were ready for our first coffee stop - we'd been going for almost an hour by now - so we stopped at a bench overlooking the lake at a spot which we will forever call the "beaver place", because first time we ever stopped there, a beaver came swimming along very close to the shore, the first time we had ever seen one in the wild!
No beaver sightings today, but here's a photo from our first visit to Glindower See (when I happened to have the Nikon with me)
Refreshed, we struck off uphill away from the lake - one of the very few bits of hilly terrain in these parts! - following the "Panoramaweg Werderobst" cycling route which showcases the famous fruit growing region west of Werder town. As well as orchards and farm shops, this route also features the site, on a hill overlooking Glindower See, of relay station no.5 of the Prussian Optical Telegraph.
Station 5 at Fuchsberg, Glindow (photo from a previous visit, one different bike!)
Built in the 1830s, before the advent of electrical telegraphy, a series of semaphore signalling masts relayed military signals from Berlin to Koblenz and Cologne in the Prussian-controlled lands on the Rhine. There were 62 stations forming a line-of-sight communication chain capable of transmitting messages in minutes, which would previously have taken days by horseback courier. One of the stations was on the eponymously-named Telegrafenberg in our current home town of Potsdam, another on Schäferberg (which I pass every time I cycle into Berlin) and one near the church I regularly attend in Dahlem, a Berlin suburb. Almost no traces remain of the original infrastructure, which was decommissioned by 1850, but several of the sites, including the one at Glindow, have commemorative sculptural replicas of the telegraph masts.
After Glindow, we diverged from the Werderobst route as we wanted to head further to the west, via the village of Plötzin. As we cycled along the main village street, suddenly and without warning, a huge insect buzzed past my cycling glasses, there was a scrabbling sensation on my face and then, in the split second between the thought "I must shift this thing before it stings me" and my hand flapping up to swoosh it off, a searing pain at the corner of my upper lip. I screamed, managing somehow to stop the bike under control despite the shock, and luckily Caroline had lagged back a little way so she didn't run into the back of me, which would have made things even worse!
As luck would have it, all this had happened right outside a shop, which must have been the only one for miles - in most of these Brandenburg villages, the small shops and even the "Gasthäuser" have long since closed down - and they kindly provided some ice to put on the sting site, as well as a freshly cut onion, which the shop lady was adamant was the correct remedy for bee or wasp stings. (I never did find out what had stung me - it might even have been a hornet!). Sitting down quietly in the cool of the shop, alternating ice and onion on the wound as well as a smear of the insect bite cream which I happened to be carrying in my saddlebag - this was a bit of luck, too, as I more often than not don't bother to pack any - soon had me on the mend, and in about 15mins I was in a fit state to resume the ride; although my lip stayed numb and swollen for a couple of hours, rather like after going to the dentist!
Our route after resuming took us further westwards through the village of Damsdorf - infamous for us being unable to get lunch there on one of our previous rides! - before turning due north on some roads which were new to us and would lead towards our planned lunch stop. I was concentrating on the navigation when Caroline suddenly said "Look! There's another of those telegraph stations!" and sure enough, the turning we were just passing was signposted to the Schenkenberg station, no.6. We were running in good time for lunch - if anything, in danger of getting to the restaurant before it opened - so we decided to stop and take a look. (Photo at the top of this article.)
Luck was on our side yet again, because arriving almost simultaneously with us was a group of German e-bikers, accompanied by a guide from the voluntary organisation which has recently been renovating the telegraph station sites and promoting a cycle tourism route linking them together. Their grand inauguration of the cycling route had in fact been just a week ago! He was really passionate about his subject and brought to life all sorts of fascinating details, such as how they had been able to trace brick fragments found at the site to the exact brickworks which made them, and reconstruct the route by which they had been brought to the building site using barges and wagons.
Info board showing the route from the brickworks at Moetzow (centre left) via barge (blue arrows) and wagon (red arrows) to the telegraph station site at bottom right
Brickwork with the MOETZOW stamp
We drank the rest of our flask of coffee while glancing through the booklet we had bought from the volunteer, which contains a lot of historical information about the Prussian Optical Telegraph as well as a route description of the cycling trail linking them - a project we might well come back to for future rides - although this particular initiative only covers the telegraph stations within the state of Brandenburg, the first 9 out of a total of 62, so we'll have to find a different source of info to explore beyond that.
The e-bike group left before us but we soon caught them up again, swooshing past with a cheery "hail-and-farewell-bonne-route" as we all headed north to link up with the Havel Radweg cycle route. They were then turning left to head towards Brandenburg city (site of the next telegraph station) while we were turning right in search of lunch!
Our route took us through a group of flooded ponds, now a nature reserve, originally formed by clay extraction for a nearby brickworks. This was also the site of the harbour where the bricks for the telegraph station were landed. It wasn't made clear why they didn't just use the bricks from this local manufacturer - maybe the Moetzow ones were of a better quality.
Entering the next village of Deetz, we were taken by surprise by a stork skimming past us from behind barely above head height, right along the village street and then zooming up to alight on its nest on the church roof. A second one closely followed, and then there was quite a melee with much clattering of beaks amid a flurry of stork wings and legs on the nest - we couldn't quite make out how many adults and young there were in total! - before one of the adults flew off again onto another rooftop across the road. Before moving to Brandenburg, I hadn't understood why storks are sometimes known as "Klapperstorch" - the beak-clattering is really quite extraordinary to hear and see as they throw their heads back and rattle their beaks in the air like a pair of castanets.
Stork shenanigans at Deetz
After a brief stop to watch the storks, our route diverged from the Havel Radweg to follow the road into the next village of Schmergow and our lunch stop at the Sans Souci Restaurant / Eiscafé, which does really sound like the perfect refreshment venue for hot hungry cyclists - especially when you read the reviews on Google Maps, with an overall review score of 4.2/5; the number being dragged down slightly by the occasional reviewer complaining about not being allowed to smoke, even in the outdoor seating - which of course made us even more keen to go there! How rare, especially in Germany, to find a completely smoke-free establishment! And very brave of the proprietor, especially as the location is somewhat tucked away in a small village, neither on a main road nor on an established cycle route, so they have to rely on their reputation rather than on passing trade. We arrived at 11.30 - they open at 11.00, so it was a good thing we had dawdled a bit en route.
Smoke-free and cyclist-friendly: Sans Souci Restaurant at Schmergow. Our "classic British touring bikes" are Caroline's 1950s J.A. Holland, recently refurbished with modern components, and my 1981 Dawes Galaxy.
Hearty German regional fare for hungry cyclists!
His: Försterschnizel (pork escalope with mushroom sauce)
Hers: ox cheek with red cabbage
His: Försterschnizel (pork escalope with mushroom sauce)
Hers: ox cheek with red cabbage
After a hearty lunch followed by ice cream and coffee - well, we are "on holiday", even if only for one day! - we tackled the last 25km or so of our route, heading first for the Ketzin Ferry, a small chain ferry which is practical as well as great fun; currently, it's the only available crossing in between Geltow (which I mentioned earlier on this ride) and Brandenburg city, some 40km to the west. There is another bridge at Werder an der Havel, but it's closed for rebuilding until October 2022. The ferry was also busy on this sunny July Saturday, with a full load of cars as well as about half a dozen other cyclists besides us.
Ketzin Ferry (photo from a previous trip, less busy!)
Then we were back onto familiar roads for what often feels like a bit of a drag into Potsdam, except that it was a lovely sunny day and we were still enjoying the ride; and there's usually something interesting to see if you keep your eyes open - in this case, the ospreys nesting on an electricity pylon at Paaren, which I resolved to come back to soon and photograph with my Nikon.
On the bike path from Ketzin to Falkenrehde
Ospreys at Paaren (photo taken a few days later)
And one final treat in store was a feast of ripe mulberries along an avenue across the fields just before arriving home; so ripe that many had dropped off the trees onto the path and were scrunching under our tyres and threatening to clog the mudguards! There were still plenty of good ones on the trees, though, for us to stop and eat a second dessert al fresco before rounding it off with one more coffee when we arrived home.
Mulberry crop near Potsdam
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-07-02T07:34:00Z
Avg Pace:
2:54/km
Elevation:
361.5
Distance:
79616.4
Moving time:
13851
Activity id:
7402786360
Strava title:
Classic British Bicycle Club trip to the Prussian Optical Telegraph station
Total photo count:
6
Title:
The Prussian Optical Telegraph
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
With a homely German lunch and surprise mulberry picking
Average speed:
5.748
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/57e17fab-f349-465c-95f1-fe88480dfd73.jpg
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