Working hard for our pub lunch
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Having a break on the Northumberland/Cumbria border
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Last year, we drove through the North Pennines en route to Scotland, and we were blown away by the beauty of the scenery. We resolved to come back for a longer stay sometime, so now here we are! It's not a well-known tourist destination; everyone's heard of the Lake District, the Peak District and the Yorkshire Dales, while everyone we spoke to on the ferry - disembarking in Newcastle - was turning right and heading for Scotland. We, however, went straight on, about an hour's drive inland, where we had booked accommodation near Allendale for our stay.
The very next day we had no family commitments and the weather forecast looked to be about the best of our stay, so instead of a gentle shakedown, we went straight into one of the longer routes we'd planned.
Even the "best day" weather was quite unsettled, and as we set off up the hill behind our holiday accommodation - directly into the teeth of quite a fresh SW wind - grey rain clouds were already welling up above the ridge ahead of us and threatening a soaking. But our legs were still fresh, too, and we made short work of the gradient, while enjoying the beauty of the landscape and the calls of the lapwings and oystercatchers as they flew up from the fields on either side of the road.
Oystercatcher (left) and lapwing (right). Both have nesting sites on the moorland and fields along our route. I was sorry not to have a better camera with me!
The rain cloud somehow miraculously bypassed us, and soon we were bowling along in sunshine on the spectacular moorland road - twisting, turning and undulating through the landscape - which took us across the border from Northumberland into Cumbria. At the summit which marks the boundary, we stopped for a rest and photos (see the top of this article) and to chat with a cyclist couple who arrived at the top simultaneously from the opposite direction. Our route at this point coincided with the "C2C" cycle route, waymarked as NCN7, which links Sunderland on the east coast to Whitehaven on the west. The cyclists outnumbered the motor vehicles by about 5 to 1 along this section!
Glorious cycling country along NCN7 near Coalcleugh
Our route dipped down to the village of Nenthead, a former centre of lead mining with traces still visible, from where we could have had an easy cruise along the A689 main road to our lunch stop in Alston. We decided instead to stay on the minor roads following NCN7, then wondered whether this had really been a good idea, as we found ourselves confronted with a 25% gradient after taking a left turn at an innocent-looking village crossroads! I brought my biggest 42-tooth cog into play, while Caroline had to dismount and walk up the steepest bit.
The 25% gradient out of Nenthead (we came up it, not down!)
Having survived that climb, we continued on quiet lanes to Alston, and made directly for the Cumberland Hotel, the same pub where we had enjoyed a tasty lunch on last year's drive through the area. We installed ourselves on a bench table in the sunshine out at the front - propping our bikes up alongside, avoiding the hassle of locking and unloading them - whereupon the sun promptly went in and we had to pile on our extra clothing layers against the cold! At least the rain continued to hold off, though, and we were able to enjoy our meals. Hers: minced beef with thyme dumplings, followed by sticky toffee pudding; his: lamb burger with goats' cheese and bacon.
Sustaining pub grub at the Cumberland Hotel, Alston
After lunch, it was time to do a bit of carefully targeted shopping (limited to the capacity of my saddlebag) in the pretty, cobblestoned town centre. Alston is barely bigger than the average village, but has a lovely selection of niche shops, including the "Hi-Pennine Outdoor Shop" - a tiny space crammed with the most amazing array of not only outdoor but also indoor gear, including a pair of slippers to keep Caroline's feet warm on the cold flagstone floor of our holiday accommodation! - and "Alston Wholefoods" who were able to satisfy our craving for English cheeses, to be enjoyed later with port & crackers.
Shopping in Alston
Alston town centre
By the time we had finished our purchases, and chatted with a very lean fit-looking fellow cyclist who had parked his bike near ours to take a break while covering the entire C2C route in a day (the other couple we met were taking four!), the grey rain clouds were building again in the south-west, behind us this time as we reversed our heading to loop back towards our start point. As we climbed steeply out of Alston and left the shelter of the wooded valley for the high exposed moor, we felt the first few raindrops while the grey straggling shrouds of rainfall could be seen approaching over the next ridge. A return back down into Alston, to shelter in a cosy tea room until the rain passed, might have been a sensible option at this point!
For the return leg, I had - somewhat optimistically, as it turned out - planned a "roughstuff" route following a section of Isaac's Tea Trail. This is published as a walking route, but the section we intended to follow was shown on the Ordnance Survey Map as a mixture of small paved "yellow" roads and "Byway open to all traffic", so I was expecting a reasonable gravel track.
Impossible surface on Isaac's Tea Trail
Instead, we were confronted with a steep incline surfaced with large, loosely laid rounded stones, quite impossible for us to ride up and quite tough even to push the bikes, due to the slipping and sliding of the loose stones. Once again, a diversion back onto tarmac might have been sensible, although the obvious main road option (running parallel) was uninviting, with fast-moving traffic. We stuck to our guns, assuming that the stony surface would only be a short section intended to deter cyclists/motorcyclists at the start point of the trail, and/or to mitigate water erosion on the steepest section.
In fact, we were more or less correct, because the surface did improve as the track levelled out over the top of the high moor, and we were able to ride for a while. The track here is protected by gates and prominent signage to protect the ground-nesting birds, for which this is an important breeding site. We mostly saw curlews here, flying very low over us and calling shrilly to divert our attention away from their nests and chicks - which remained well hidden!
Gate and signage on Isaac's Tea Trail
The tough ascent was well worth it for the wonderful tranquility of the open moor, with only the sheep and the curlews for company, apart from one solitary hiker whom we met coming in the opposite direction. And our amazing weather luck held, as the grey clouds parted after hitting us with those first few drops, and passed on either side of us like the waters of the Red Sea, leaving us dry in between.
Crossing Mohope Moor - with sheep! Our wide tyres (hers: 53mm; his: 42mm) coped well with this grade of gravel...
...as demonstrated by Caroline
Curlews over the moor
For the descent back to the valley at Ninebanks, though, the coarser stony surface returned, and we found it even more difficult in the downhill direction due to the tendency of both our feet and the bike wheels to slide away.
Spectacular but treacherous, the descent towards Ninebanks; those rain clouds had passed us by now and were receding towards the NE
We were so grateful to be back on tarmac that I briefly forgot that we were back in Blighty and started off riding on the right, which frightened the life out of an oncoming van driver!
It would be good to say that all that was left was a gentle cruise home along delightful quiet lanes, but in fact the Navigation Gods (remember them from one of my earlier stories?!) had one trick left to play on us when we started up a climb marked with a 14% gradient sign - thinking "haha, that's easy peasy compared to what we did earlier" - and then rounded a corner to find a much steeper ramp which I could swear was over 20%! (The OS map bears this out, with a 2-chevron marking meaning 20%+) We survived again, though, and it wasn't long before we made it to the end of our ride - sunshine on the surrounding fells having replaced the rain clouds, so we could enjoy our reviving tea & coffee on the patio outside our accommodation.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2022-06-09T10:11:07Z
Avg Pace:
5:44/km
Elevation:
1305.4
Distance:
50605.7
Moving time:
17420
Activity id:
7281365229
Strava title:
To Alston for a nice pub lunch
Total photo count:
7
Title:
Working hard for our pub lunch
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Out via NCN7 with some nifty gradients up to 25%
Back via Isaac's Tea Trail with some extreme hike-a-bike roughstuff 🙄
Miraculously, the rain went round us instead of onto us (we thought we were in for a drenching at least twice!)
Average speed:
2.905
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/field/image/2819/externals/tmp/0611121c-1b72-416e-bd00-5bcf8d191599.jpg
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