On the Tracks of Saxony in Brandenburg - Part 2
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Like a train timetable carved in stone: the Duchy of Saxony Postal obelisks show the travel time in hours ("St." = Stunden) to various destinations. The standardised hour corresponds to about 4.5km
May 2021: we are getting to know our local area much better, as a positive consequence of the COVID-19 travel restrictions which forbid us from leaving our home state of Brandenburg! (Actually, as of a few days ago, that's no longer strictly true: one of our neighbouring states, Lower Saxony, opened to out-of-state tourists just a few days ago.)
One of the things we have learned is that a substantial area in the southern part of Brandenburg once belonged to Saxony, until the Congress of Vienna in 1815 when the territory was ceded to Prussia, and thus eventually became part of the modern-day Brandenburg. On our first ride exploring the relics of Saxony, we were so impressed by the 1730 postal mileage obelisk in Brück that we decided to find some more similar ones. There's a handy online map compiled by an enthusiast, which shows all their surviving locations, so it was a relatively simple task to plan a bike ride joining them up!
Screen shot from the mileposts map. Compare our own route, below
The map will be interactive once the story is published.
Before our rides we always check the weather forecast, which today showed rain clearing away by about 08:00. Unfortunately, when we arrived at our start point in Uebigau at 08:30, it was definitely still raining! We spun out our pre-ride coffees as long as possible, but as the weather forecast app was also suggesting thunderstorms for the afternoon, it became clear that we couldn't postpone any longer and would have to resign ourselves to starting in light rain and hope that it cleared up soon.
Pretty cobbled streets in Uebigau
Uebigau is nowadays a very small and unimportant town - I hadn't even heard of it before planning this ride - but in the past was evidently a place of some significance, and has a beautifully preserved central market square bounded by characteristic buildings. To collect our first obelisk of the day we only had about 2 minutes' ride from where we had parked, but we didn't stop for photos because of the rain; we came back later at the end of the ride - by which time it was about to start pouring with rain again, but we managed a few quick snaps before hurrying back to the shelter of our rented vehicle!
Uebigau postal obelisk - with backdrop of dark clouds threatening more of the rain which bracketed our day at both ends
Unusually for Brandenburg, there had been a lot of rain over the past few days, and looking at the side tracks leading off the road as we passed, it became clear that once we left the paved roads and got onto the "roughstuff", we and the bikes could be in for quite a mudbath. Just as I was thinking about this, indeed it so came to pass, as the tarmac ended and we found ourselves on our first gravel track of the day. (It turned out that we'd landed up there due to a navigational error on my part, although it didn't make much difference in the end.)
First roughstuff of the day - looking pretty wet!
Luckily - or maybe just "as predicted" - the rain didn't amount to much, and stopped altogether within 1/2 hour of us starting. Our next stop was the nicely preserved windmill in the village of Koßdorf, which still has a feed mill business on the site.
Koßdorf mill
From Koßdorf the route took us due west along a beautifully re-laid cobbled avenue - as I remarked to Caroline, if all the cobblestone roads were this good then there wouldn't be a problem! - and also, illegally though inadvertently, took us briefly across the state border into the real Saxony. I only noticed this when reviewing our trace on Strava later; there'd been no boundary signage along the road. The mistake occurred because I'd got it into my mind that the border follows the river Elbe, which we hadn't crossed; as it happens, the border diverges from the Elbe at exactly this point. Anyway, we managed to dodge any border guards, and we very soon crossed back again, so it was all ok!
Beautifully re-laid cobblestone road, crossing the state border towards the village of Stehla (not to be confused with Strehla, a larger town further south)
Once on the bike path beside the Elbe - safely back on Brandenburg ground! - we stopped to finish up the rest of the coffee in our flask, watched a stork foraging along the river bank, and then pushed on to the next village of Altbelgern, where there was another windmill to photograph - a wooden post mill, this time - as well as a vintage tractor and trailer on display.
View across the Elbe to the forbidden territory of Saxony
Photographing the mill in Altbelgern (photo by Caroline)
Vintage tractor & trailer in Altbelgern
Barely another kilometre on, we were stopping again to admire the beautiful baroque palace at Martinskirchen, with its characterful but sadly disused stable block. With a 90km route planned for the day, all these photo stops weren't making for rapid progress!
Schloss Martinskirchen, with added DDR-era fence
Stable/utility block at Schloss Martinskirchen (photo by Caroline)
Luckily it wasn't much further to the next postal obelisk on our route, in the town of Mühlberg, famous for a decisive battle in 1547 between Catholic and Protestant forces in the aftermath of the Reformation. It's a lovely little town, worthy of a longer visit sometime. The former Convent Church is especially impressive, with its cloister and frescoes, currently under restoration.
Mühlberg convent church - exterior & interior
Mühlberg: I'm a fan of picturesque gateways!
Mühlberg postal obelisk, set among beautiful horse chestnut trees
After having our picnic lunch on a bench near the Mühlberg obelisk, we had a nice fast cruise with the westerly wind behind us towards Elsterwerda, on mostly tarmac bike paths, helping us catch up some distance to compensate for all the morning sightseeing stops. We had a short roughstuff detour to view the surviving Saxony Triangulation marker just outside the village of Schweinfurth. The date on the marker - 1866 - struck us as strange, since we thought that the current borders still follow the 1815 Congress of Vienna boundary; this should have alerted us to the fact that we had once again strayed over the border, the marker being, then as now, on the very extremity of Saxony territory. There's a fascinating article (in German) explaining all about Saxony's triangulation system, with a reproduced map showing Schweinfurth stuck out on a limb at the very northernmost extent of the triangulation grid!
Schweinfurth triangulation marker; those rain clouds kept on threatening us all day!
Navigation oops! For heaven's sake why can't you just stay away from that border! (The triangulation marker is at the rightmost little tick; the excursion into Schweinfurth was a genuine wrong turn; map on the left is our other border excursion near Stehla, mentioned earlier.)
Elsterwerda seemed sadly run-down by comparison to the two small towns we had already visited, Uebigau and Mühlberg. There were closed-down businesses everywhere, including the pharmacy adjacent to the postal obelisk - despite its proud history proclaimed on a plaque on the wall - and the elegant ex-bakery next to that. The only apparently thriving business on that little square was a garish-fronted kebab shop, which I had a job keeping out of the background of my photos! Also sadly neglected was the impressive, but collapsing, railway water tower which we passed on the way into town.
Sad, tired Elsterwerda: the water tower, the postal obelisk with the closed-down pharmacy and bakery in the background, and the historic pharmacy plaque
We'd now completed two sides of our triangular route, and after retracing a short distance from Elsterwerda to reach the cycle path along the Schwarze Elster river, it was just a matter of following the river more or less due north-west to return to our start point in Uebigau while "collecting" a couple more obelisks along the way. Soon we came upon a pair of hikers who had stopped and were photographing something in the long grass between the path and the river; we stopped too, to find out what was causing the interest - it turned out to be a group of coypu ("Nutria" in German) - not baby beavers as we first thought - which it seems are quite a menace along this stretch of river as their burrows are undermining the bank. No photo, as I only had my camera phone with me, which doesn't zoom enough. I'd not brought the Nikon on this ride, and had forgotten the Olympus travel camera at home charging.
The last substantial town on our route, Bad Liebenwerda, couldn't have been more different to its down-at-heel southern neighbour. Smart and well-kept-up, with an imposing city gate tower, broad main street with thriving shops, the postal obelisk, and a beautiful church with a wedding in progress - the bride and groom just preparing to leave in a flower-bedecked and beribboned articulated truck tractor unit! Being a well-known spa resort, and source of a very popular bottled mineral water, probably contribute to the town's relative prosperity.
Neat, manicured Bad Liebenwerda: but we should have paid more heed to those gathering clouds!
Sundial, and detail of the post coach timetable, in Bad Liebenwerda
During the 10 minutes or so we stopped in Bad Liebenwerda, our attention was focused on the attractions on the ground rather than up in the sky, so it was only as we left the town behind and rejoined the riverside bike path that we realised that not only was there a huge black raincloud, but it was very definitely heading our way! Moments later the first raindrops arrived and we stopped to put on rain jackets and to tuck away my phone in an inside pocket - although it's IP68 rated (nominally withstanding water immersion to 1.5m for 30 minutes), the last time I got it damp in a shower it needed 48 hours packed in silica gel before it stopped complaining about moisture in the USB port. The rain became torrential, with some hail mixed in, and we looked in vain for a covered picnic shelter or other refuge beside the bike path; we'd passed plenty of them earlier, but there was none in our hour of need! There was nothing for it but to keep riding on - luckily we were only half an hour or so away from our vehicle at this point, and we had dry clothes stashed!
The shower passed as suddenly as it arrived, and we were so full of Beethovenian feelings of thanksgiving after the storm that we almost rode straight on past the last obelisk of our route, which I'd temporarily forgotten about. This was next to the river bridge in the village of Wahrenbrück, which must have been much more important in the 18th century than it is now.
We'd been looking down each list of destinations for Brück, the former northern outpost of Saxony which is home to the very first obelisk we went to look at, and had been perplexed not to find it - but here at Wahrenbrück (and also at Uebigau when we went back to look at the end of the ride) it was indeed listed.
Wet shiny bicycle and wet shiny road in Wahrenbrück; at last we found Brück listed as a destination!
Wahrenbrück is also a pretty little place, but we didn't feel inclined to linger for more photos, as we still had some unfinished business with the obelisk back in Uebigau (photo near the top) and we wanted to get there before the next rainstorm, which we could already see looming! Luckily we were successful and had time for a few photos in Uebigau, including the elegant Schloss there, before retreating to our vehicle and just managing to get the bikes loaded before the rain caught us up again.
Schloss Uebigau: journey's end, just round the corner from where we parked
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2021-05-14T09:29:56Z
Avg Pace:
3:39/km
Elevation:
107.7
Distance:
91344.9
Moving time:
20012
Activity id:
5295897463
Strava title:
Collecting postal obelisks in Elbe-Elster with Caroline
Total photo count:
13
Title:
On the Tracks of Saxony in Brandenburg - Part 2
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Plus assorted other artefacts!
Loop from Uebigau to Mühlberg and Elsterwerda, ridden anticlockwise.
Average speed:
4.565
Cover image:
https://storyteller.fit/sites/default/files/styles/extra/public/field/image/2819/IMG_20210518_090605.jpg?itok=hDh1Xarm
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