Memorable first visit to the Isle of Wight
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Believe it or not, at the age of 60, I had never been to the Isle of Wight! This all changed during Caroline's and my "60th birthday tour", when, amongst other visits, we finally caught up with her former college bestie who now lives on "The Island", as the locals call it. We had been promising each other a visit for at least a decade, and at last the time had come. (She was also due to turn 60 later that same year, by the way. What an splendid vintage 1963 was!)
We booked 2 nights in a hotel in Southampton, parked the hire car there for the duration, and made a day trip of it with our bikes via the Red Jet catamaran to Cowes. This was also a notable milestone for me, because it was the first time in my life that I had ever benefited from an elderly person's discount on anything! So there's two firsts for me straight off, in one morning, before the sun was even over the yard arm.
All aboard the Red Jet
Life milestone: my first ever old-age-related discount on anything!
After breakfast in a quayside café at Cowes, we trundled down the disused railway cycle path to the outskirts of Newport, where Caroline stopped off to spend the day with her friend while I headed off for my "hard ride". (Please bear in mind, when looking at my ride stats, that "hard" is a relative term!) I wasn't really sure what to expect; I'd heard all the clichés, of course. Imagine England stuck in a 1950s time warp. Crawling with holidaymakers. Nothing worth seeing except The Needles. Roads jammed with traffic. Bearing all this in mind, I'd planned a route which I hoped would take in some pretty villages and some expansive coastal views, while making use of off-road trails as much as possible, and avoiding the main tourist honeypots (including The Needles!). Then our friend persuaded me that I really shouldn't miss The Needles after all, so I tweaked the route accordingly, as well as including a lunch-stop rendezvous with the ladies - who were planning their own (motorised) tour, mostly focused on gardens - and off I went.
I started off by popping into Newport town centre for a few items of shopping - I found it not quite exactly stuck in a 1950s time warp, but at least with a few discernible traces.
Newport: doing its darnedest to stay in that time warp
Then I struck out due south down the centreline of the Island, firstly along the designated cycle trail towards Sandown, before branching off onto minor roads which led me to the village of Whitwell. I stopped to photograph the old village church, set on a slight rise above the road with an impressively congruent array of gravestones - whereupon it started to rain.
Phalanx of tombstones at Whitwell
Camera away, rain jacket on, and I jumped back on the bike to whiz off downhill (initially, at least!) from Whitwell towards the coast at St Lawrence, although there was another steep little ridge to climb in between, and I never quite made it down to beach level; the road followed the contour a little higher up, behind the houses lining the seafront itself.
The rain stopped as suddenly as it started and I was able to shed the rain jacket again - just as well, as I would otherwise have got very sticky on the hard pull back up that coastal ridge towards the old lighthouse at Niton.
At the top of the hill I paused for breath and to reassess my route, which according to plan took me back inland on a bridleway at this point; but I felt that I hadn't seen anywhere near enough coastal views yet, and the main road which I had just reached didn't look all that busy (confounding my preconceptions), so I decided to follow it westwards further uphill and over the next crest towards the tourist honeypot of Blackgang Chine.
At the top, I found myself still too far inland for decent views; looking for a path towards the cliff top, I accidentally turned into a lane leading to an extremely posh house just as a pair of young men emerged in a classic sports car - stopping before they sped off to inform me, with politeness as impeccable as their dress sense, that there was no public way through.
Thus blocked from reaching the actual coastline, I changed tack and headed further inland and uphill instead, reasoning that the higher the ground the better the views. The sun had come out now, the clouds were clearing away, the rain had washed the dust out of the air, and an excursion up a very straight, very steep and very inviting - to me, at least! - gravel track rewarded me with the hoped-for crystal clear panoramic view westwards towards the Needles.
Splendid view westwards from St Catherine's Down
The mapping suggested I could carry on inland from here and connect back to my original planned route. The track turned "singletrail" after some kind of installation (military, I think) at the top of that first gravel incline, and led to a curious structure on the next hilltop resembling a stone space rocket, complete with fins. I decided that this would make a good spot for a rest and a snack break. I also had to replan my onward route again, as I'd just been informed of a change of lunch venue.
Not a space rocket, but rather the remains of St Catherine's Oratory, dating from 1328
After descending carefully on a steep grassy slope through a sheep field, the next section of track ran along the top of a spur ridge pointing inland, with panoramic views across the interior of the island, and pointing straight at another intriguing structure which turned out to be a monument originally erected to commemorate the visit to Britain in 1814 of Tsar Alexander the 1st, and later rededicated to the fallen of the Crimean War.
The spur leading to the Hoy Monument, just discernable about ⅔ to the right of the frame
Hoy Monument
Nice to see a "Dawes" on the monument - even though I wasn't riding my Dawes bike today!
I couldn't see an obvious track leaving the Hoy Monument in my planned direction of travel, but looking more carefully I saw that I was supposed to follow a narrow singletrail, intriguingly (or ominously) signposted "Chalk Ridge Extreme"!
My bike was built to tackle extremes - not so sure about the rider, though
As it turned out, I spent a very pleasant half hour or so negotiating what were mostly perfectly rideable forest and field tracks - dodging occasional mosquitoes, stinging nettles and dog walkers - although the going was quite slow, and once back on tarmac I had to push quite hard against the wind to make it on time to my lunch rendezvous at the Three Bishops in Brighstone.
Three Bishops and me
After a convivial and sustaining lunch, I set off again westwards (Needles-wards!) across the exposed coastal plain, chugging away into that west wind which seemed to be getting fresher by the minute, before turning inland and uphill again to ascend Brook Down, initially on tarmac, before branching onto a chalk gravel track, taxing both me and the lowest gears of my bike with gradients up to about 15%.
The track to Brook Down
The reward at the top was yet more magnificent views over the chalk downs to the sweep of white cliffs and blue sea; the breeze in my hair (well, around my helmet); birdsong, butterflies and bumble-bees. The perfect spot, in fact, to shoot a portrait of my splendid bike, the "Titanium Devil", in its preferred element.
Gravel roads in high places: the Ti Devil in its element
As I stepped away with my camera, I became aware that I had propped the bike up against the wind rather than with it, and one second after pressing the shutter for the photo above, BANG! over it fell as a stronger gust caught it. Unluckily, the rear derailleur - in its lowest position as you can see in the photo - had caught on a bump in the ground and been bent inwards into the spokes; when I tried to bend it back, it came off in my hand, guv.
Broke down on Brook Down
The part which had actually broken wasn't the derailleur itself (which would have been straightforward for sourcing a replacement), but the "derailleur hanger extender", a very niche little gizmo which makes possible the insanely low gearing on this bike by hacking the Shimano 105 derailleur to work with an enormous rear sprocket of 42 teeth instead of its designed maximum of 32. "This could be awkward...", I thought to myself.
My first idea was to remove the two broken halves of the extender, and mate the derailleur direct to the frame, which would enable me to finish the ride even if I couldn't use the lowest few gears. The stub attached to the frame came off ok, but the one attached to the derailleur thwarted me - so the next best option was leave off the derailleur completely and turn it into a single-speed bike, shortening the chain accordingly. Luckily my multi-tool includes a chain rivet extractor! This should have been good enough to allow me to limp back to Newport in time for dinner, but I also considered finding a bike shop - as I was keen to get it fixed properly for the rest of our holiday - and a quick web search via my mobile phone revealed that I was only 6km away from Adrian's Bike Shop in Freshwater, with a stunning 5.0/5 review rating in 74 Google reviews. (You should actually go and read those reviews, they are an amazing catalogue of excellence!)
My temporary fix turned out not to be ideal - the chain tended to jump off under anything more than a gentle load - so I was pleased that the route to Freshwater was nearly all downhill, and very relieved to reach Adrian's Bike Shop unscathed; still more relieved to be greeted with "yes, just bring it in" and not "workshop's booked solid until next Tuesday week, go away" (the reaction I got last time I went to a bike shop for emergency repairs, in Germany). And I was absolutely astonished when Adrian said "Ah, a Tripster, that's a stock frame we use to build up bikes for customers. I have exactly the part you need." ("Tripster" is the rather naff name by which that bike frame is marketed. A Kinesis Tripster ATR v2, to give it its full nomenclature.)
Adrian's Bike Shop earning their 5* review score
I was back on the road in less than an hour - including waiting for Adrian to finish with the previous customer - with the bike working even, if anything, a bit better than before, Adrian having done a few expert tweaks to the gear adjustment in the course of fitting the replacement part. But I was destined not to get to The Needles after all - in spite of all this morning's discussions - as I had to hot-foot it back to Newport, luckily with the wind behind me now, to make up the lost time and arrive in time for dinner with our friends. Then it was just a matter of wobbling back to the ferry later in the evening, several glasses of wine to the good - thank goodness for the off-road bike route! - to complete an eventful day trip.
Crossing the River Yar estuary at Freshwater, with a fully functional drivetrain reinstated
Former Yarmouth Station on the ex-railway cycle path
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2023-07-17T07:50:44Z
Avg Pace:
3:40/km
Elevation:
1008.5
Distance:
85013.3
Moving time:
18693
Activity id:
9469965433
Strava title:
Memorable first visit to the Isle of Wight
Total photo count:
10
Title:
Memorable first visit to the Isle of Wight
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
In which our hero tackles part of the "Chalk Ridge Extreme" cycle route, and the Titanium Devil gets temporarily reconfigured as a 1-speed
Average speed:
4.548
Cover image:
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