What goes up must come down
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Yesterday's ride had landed me up at the top of the >2000m Splügen Pass. Today I had to get back down again. I'd slept very badly, my aching muscles and creaking joints, from the previous day's exertions, precluding any comfortable position in bed. I woke with a headache. I wondered if I was getting a migraine. I didn't have a contingency plan for getting sick at the overnight stop. I didn't even know if there was a bus service over this pass (I hadn't seen any). I had to be back in Zurich in time for work on Monday morning.
Two caffeine tablets and two paracetamol brought some relief to the headache and I dragged myself out of bed. I wanted to get all my stuff packed up before breakfast, which wasn't difficult, as I was travelling super light for this mini-tour. Over the hotel breakfast, I checked the weather forecast, which was decidedly not great: the radar map showed a great arc of rain precisely covering my planned route to Lugano. I considered abandoning my pre-booked rail ticket, and re-tracing my route back down the north side to Thusis instead, but all things considered that didn't seem to be much better. I was going to get wet, then.
Weather looking decidedly blue over my route
Also over breakfast, I somewhat belatedly worked out the detailed timings for today's ride. The planned route was about 110km, an easy distance for a day's ride (so I airily thought), especially if it's mostly downhill. Doing the maths told a different story:
30km down the pass @30km/h = 1 hour
55km flattish @18km/h = 3 hrs
35km undulating @16km/h = 2 hours
Add another couple of hours for food, rest, photography and navigation stops, and that gives 8 hours; factor in the leftover fatigue from yesterday's ride, and suddenly catching a train at 1700 from Lugano didn't seem like such an easy-peasy proposition, after all! Not only was I going to get wet; I was going to be under time pressure, too.
Getting the ride off to a soggy start in Montespluga
Being a glutton for punishment, and blasé about the time pressure, I actually started off in the wrong direction - up the pass - in order to get a photo of the view down on the village of Montespluga and the lake beyond - the photo I hadn't stopped for on my way down yesterday as I'd been in too much of a hurry to get to my dinner! Photography dealt with, it was almost exactly 9am by the time I pointed the bike back downhill through the swirls of cloud and (thankfully light) rain. I wryly thought to myself that I wouldn’t be seeing much of the spectacular scenery mentioned in the route notes for this south side of the pass – probably just as well, otherwise I would lose too much time on photo stops! I'll just have to come here again sometime and hope for better weather.
The road itself was amazing – with its 54 hairpin bends, even exceeding the famous Stelvio Pass (which has 48), and tunnels galore, some of them rough-hewn from the rock. I (possibly mis-)counted 12 tunnels and 11 open-sided galleries. With light traffic – good to be riding early in the day, as the traffic increased noticeably during my descent – very few potholes, and no nasty gravelly bits on the hairpin bends, the ride felt exhilarating but never genuinely dangerous.
Colourful buildings in Chiavenna
I reached Chiavenna, the town at the foot of the pass, in exactly the prescribed hour. The rain had all but stopped by now and so I made the first adjustment to my layers, and was able to think about photography again. There was a problem with my front light, though, which was literally on the blink and wouldn't turn off. I could only stop it by taking the batteries out, and when I put them back in, it wouldn’t turn on again. Good job I didn’t have any night riding planned for this trip! It was turning into a bad trip for breakages, as one of my water bottles had broken the previous day – it still held water, but had to be handled very carefully.
Lake Mezzola looking positively glacial
Between Chiavenna and Lake Como, a distance of 25km or so, the route was on very nice dedicated bike paths along the Fiume Mera river, skirting the shore of the smaller Lake Mezzola, and across a nature reserve. (I assumed that this quality of bike path would be the norm for the rest of the ride – I was in for a rude awakening later!) At Lake Mezzola I caught up the fellow cyclist from my hotel, who had left ahead of me and was having a snack stop beside the lake. I was due a snack too, so I joined her and we chatted for a few minutes before she went on her way to catch her train.
As I rode on, I found myself wondering what would break next on my bike; bad luck comes in threes, as everyone knows! Then I remembered that the top cap of my pump had broken while pumping the tyres post-flight the other day, so that probably counted, and I would be OK (the pump, like the water bottle, was still just about usable with care). Fate was not to be cheated that easily, though! At the next layer-adjustment stop, when I went to put my cycling glasses back on (I’d had to take them off coming down the pass because they were misting up too much in the rain), one of the prescription lens inserts fell out – luckily into my hand, not into the grass. Later in the day, there was even a fourth breakage, when one of the rubber covers from my bar-end gear levers dropped off and was lost.
Lake Como looking stunning; but some pretty ugly weather back where I had come from!
Love Lake Como for its stunning scenery; hate it for its woefully inadequate cycling infrastructure. Faced with the choice between a narrow main road full of fast-moving and aggressive traffic, or a tiny shared pedestrian/cyclist path twisting and turning along the lakeside - and with a train to catch - what would you do?! A partial answer was to take to the hills: the towns and villages usually had a street following the contour a little way up, if only I could find it, which involved some great fun twisting and turning through insanely narrow cobbled alleyways.
Burning up the back-alleys above Lake Como
The navigation was costing time, though, as was the repeated climbing up the valley side and dropping down again where the side roads merged back to the lakeside. Luckily my legs were up to the challenge, yesterday’s efforts apparently already forgotten, and I was staying pretty well on my “run rate” for catching the train, as well as getting some amazing views as reward for my efforts!
Goodbye and good riddance to Lake Como
I wasn't sorry to see the back of Lake Como when I turned off westwards at Menaggio – up a 200m climb with 6 more hairpins - but it turned out to be out of the frying pan, into the fire, the traffic being just as bad on the Lugano road. Despite my best defensive riding techniques, I had several unnervingly close passes.
Pretty Porlezza, at the Italian end of Lake Lugano
An interlude of tranquility came when I reached Lake Lugano and was able to follow the old, traffic-free lakeside road for a few kilometres. The somewhat treacherous unlit tunnels (without a working front light!) were still preferable to that traffic!
One of several tunnels on the old road near Porlezza
All too soon the idyll came to an end when I had to merge back onto the main road – reaching the height of insanity at the Italian/Swiss border, where the border checks in the direction I was travelling actually took place inside one of the tunnels! I flatly refused to go in, and instead got off my bike and walked contra-flow along the opposite, open-air carriageway, to the bemusement of the border guards who were checking the vehicles going into Italy, not leaving. They waved me through anyway – but the maw of yet another tunnel was waiting there to swallow me, and I’d had enough. A tiny side road, with a barrier levying an entry toll from motorists, led down towards the lakeside tourist-honeypot village of Gandria with its palm trees, elegant villas and bijou cafes. I reckoned I would be able to get through along the shore path, and I wasn’t put off when it turned into a hiking trail with many flights of steps up & down. I’d made up my mind that I’d rather miss my train than go into even one more damned tunnel! The views from that lakeside path were amazing, too.
Hike-a-bike through Gandria
Eventually the trail became rideable again and then it was only a matter of time before I made it to Lugano. Despite the hike-a-bike, in the end I still got there with more than an hour to spare before my train. Before turning my attention to the ice cream and espresso which I’d promised myself if I had enough spare time, I had to deal with the more pressing matter of cleaning my bike! It was totally plastered with mud splatters from those nasty paths at Lake Como, and I was pretty sure that my hotel in Zurich wouldn’t be happy to let me bring it in in that state. My legs weren't in a much better state, either.
A bike in sore need of cleaning
Salvation came in the form of the windscreen-cleaning bucket and sponge in an unstaffed filling station just below Lugano Station. I felt no guilt at messing up the bucket for any motorists who might come along after me - it was payback for all those who had spent the afternoon carving me up on the road over from Menaggio!
Lugano: a station with a view
Lugano Station – as I remembered from previous visits – has an excellent ice cream café. I settled in with a triple-scoop ice cream and a double espresso; then backed that up with another double espresso; then noticed that they also had delicious-looking pizza slices further along the counter, so I polished off two of those, too.
"Pizza alla Luganico"?
Then it was just the right time to wander over to the platform for my train to Zurich, which turned out to be almost empty, as it was a relief train scheduled to leave 5 minutes after the normally timetabled service (which was rammed full, of course).
Only one e-bike for company on the train to Zurich
Postscript: I suspected damp electronics as the cause of my front light failure - so later at the hotel I opened up the battery compartment and the USB port and played the hotel hairdryer on them to dry them out - a trick I learned from my father, who would take a hairdryer to the distributor on his old Rover when it refused to start on a drizzly Cornish morning. Guess what? It worked! The light is back in action.
Type:
Ride
Workout_type:
default
Date:
2023-06-04T08:49:38Z
Avg Pace:
2:58/km
Elevation:
751.5
Distance:
109885
Moving time:
19518
Activity id:
9202946882
Strava title:
What goes up must come down
Total photo count:
6
Title:
What goes up must come down
Summary Polyline:
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Description:
Splügen Pass to Lugano via Lake Como
Only 2 countries today (Italy and Switzerland)
Average speed:
5.63
Cover image:
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